Most cheddar cheeses coming from Vermont and New York are
white, but the majority of Wisconsin cheddar is colored.
All cheese is naturally
white, off white, or even a golden yellow, depending on the type
of milk used. The color comes from the flavorless Annatto seed,
which gives Wisconsin cheddar the pumpkin orange hue.
Sid Cook,
fourth-generation owner of Carr Valley Cheese in LaValle, Wis.,
believes the state’s cheddars were tinted orange as far back as
the late 1800s. In the early days of Wisconsin cheesemaking,
cows dined on carotene-rich pasture, and their milk naturally
produced a cheese with a rich golden color. Gradually, some
dairies moved their cows off pasture and onto dry feed, with the
resulting milk yielding paler cheese. Because consumers already
associated the gold color with quality, cheesemakers used
Annatto to bring back the color.
Another theory holds
that Wisconsin cheese-makers wanted to differentiate their
cheddars from those coming from New York, so they used Annatto
seed and turned their cheddars orange, using it as their own
claim to fame and capturing a portion of the market.
After a cow chews the
cud, beta-carotene dissolves into the animal’s fat stores and
ends up in fat globules in its milk. However, protein clusters
and the membranes that surround fat globules in milk conceal the
pigment’s color, reflecting light in a way that makes milk
appear white and opaque. During the cheesemaking process, the
pigment is released. After bacterial culture and rennet have
been added to milk and the coagulated mixture is cooked, the fat
membranes dissolve and the protein clusters loosen so they do
not reflect light. The beta carotene is made visible, and it
also becomes more concentrated, since the lean liquid component
of the milk, called whey, is drained off. It follows that the
fattiest cheeses, and those from cows grazed on open pasture,
tend to have the deepest natural color.
Incidentally, there
is no taste difference because of color. When it is produced,
cheddar cheese is naturally white to light yellow in color.
The dark yellow / orange color is the result of the coloring
additive. Also, but unrelated, according to research conducted
by the British Cheese Board, no study subjects reported having
nightmares after eating cheese, but blue cheese consumption
had a tendency to make dreams a bit odd.
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